Monday, October 29, 2012

Whales, dolphins and surfers

Three weeks in Dunsborough, about 3 hours south of Perth will get you a serious tan, an oceanic wildlife display, wine, cheese and sand everywhere. I went out to visit some mates from the US. Thanks Brendan and Bri for showing me the heady life of surfing and exploring some of your beautiful country. The Capes region seems to be a paradise. There's tonnes of surf spots up and down the coast and it's drop dead gorgeous as well. The region is filled with grapes and wine and you can go surfing in the morning and wine tasting in the evening. We ate some delicious food, drank coffee and port and loved every minute of it.

One thing that surprised me about this place was the frolicking dolphins and whales. The dolphins would be surfing in the waves in pods. They would ride the wave in and then jump back through it into the air. It was magnificent to see. You could seemingly see whales every sunset if you had a good view of the water. We watched whales breaching and swimming about 10 minutes from Brendan and Bri's house. The sunsets were astounding and the crystal blue Indian Ocean matched with this vivid penetrating sunlight made everything seem more alive.

B and B and I went walking on the Bibblemun Track, a 45 day long track from around Perth to the Southern coast. We started at Walpole and walked to Peaceful Bay through the Karri forest and the southern coast. There were magnificent trees with gigantic hollows that you and about 10 of your friends could stand in. Brendan and I were calling to each other with exotic bird calls from hollow to hollow. This is where Mike and Bridge-O, a couple from Hawaii and Germany met us with a keg and a feast in the middle of the woods. Props to Mike and Bridge-O for throwing a bang-up bash in the middle of the forest, that was great fun. The rest of the walk was incredible forest, swimming, beach, story telling and lots and lots of flies.

Another favorite was the walk with Brendan and Dave up the coast of Cape Naturalist. What a day of exploring, adventuring, rock climbing and spear throwing. This was a true adventure (man-walk).

Luckily, I had the chance to help throw a bang-up Thanksgiving meal amongst Brendan and Bri's friends. Even though this was their first Thanksgiving, with the exception of Mike from Hawaii, they all threw down on the turkey table and we had a magnificent meal with a beautiful turkey (nice job Bri). I had a blast with Kat and Dave and Mike and Bridge-O (and thanks for the music Mike, especially the last song) and everyone else celebrating the spirit of gratitude.

It was great to see Brendan and Mike and Bridge-O surf these huge waves. I have much more respect for surfers floating out among these monsters and getting crushed and battered against the reef so they can revel in the spirit of the ocean.

Thanks everyone for showing me another unforgettable experience on the Indian Ocean.

I've got to thank Tom, Gemma and Amy up in Freemantle for hosting me for a day and taking in a little reggae festival as well. I had a great time up there and I hope to see you in Colorado some time.

I hope to see everyone fight to keep this part of the world wild.

Sunday, April 13, 2008

NZ

I'm here, alive and in New Zealand. Sorry it's been so long since the last detailed account of the journey. Anyhow, here I am in Queenstown, in the southern end of the South Island. I have traveled all around the country spending time in the north going to immaculate beaches, swimming to islands, snorkeling, catching shellfish and paua (abalone) meeting wonderful kiwi's and many others from other countries. New Zealand is truly a paradise. The environment changes so drastically so quickly, especially since the mountains erupt right out of the ocean most of the time.

I and my companion, Vera from Koblenz Germany, hiked through volcanoes and to the tops of mountains and met some kiwi's that were truly inspirational with their kindness. We were housed, fed and even taken water skiing by kiwis we met along the way. Many adventures have been had since I last wrote that will not make it onto this blog. I'll try to get back with more soon but my time is almost at this cafe. I'm now traveling with a couple from Argentina named Maximiliano and Juliette Castro. They are superb and I have learned quite a bit about the world from the people here.

Love

David

Monday, December 3, 2007

Goodbye Tasie

I'm sad to leave this beautiful place. I just wanted to thank everyone I met because they were so kind, generous and colorful like the plentiful rainbows that seemingly always appear on the horizon. A special thanks to Moira and Lloyd for their hospitality, scrumptious food and a many good laughs. Thanks Kristin and Darren for showing me the time of my life. I'll never forget it.

Monday, October 29, 2007

South Coast Track Wedding Week Adventure

The South Coast Track is an unbelievable world heritage wilderness that sits on the southern tip of the Island of Tasmania, staring Antarctica straight in the face. Antarctica is too far away to see but you can certainly experience the weather that comes out of the Southern Ocean on this track. This track is known for its difficulty, hazards and extreme weather all tempered by the gorgeous and exillerating experience of the place.


I met Prue, one of K and D's friends from Darwin, on the day that we flew out on a very small plane to Melaluka. You have to either fly in ot sail in to get to the beginning of this track. There is a small airstrip that was built by a pioneer bushman where we landed with Tom, our pilot. There was a storm over the mainland wich meant that we had a bumpy ride along the coast and some amazing airials of our future track.


We flew in on Saturday, October 13th and K and D's wedding was on the next Saturday at 2:00 pm, at wich time I am to speak about community. The track is said to take 6-8 days so we have to hustle 86 kilometers up and down mountians (the Ironbounds and the South Cape Range) through horrendous mud up to your hips, through sand and rocky beaches and up waterfalls and through jungles. I think we can do it, with gusto and hitch back to Houonville for the wedding.


Prue and I got started the evening that we landed and hiked for 4 hours to the first beach and campsite at Cox Bight in the dark and wet night. This was fairly sheltered by the trees and we could only hear the violent wind and rain that fell all night long. We woke up and were ready for the day.


Prue is an avid bushwalker and marine conservationist who had tried this walk before from Port Arthur. Unfortunately, she and her partner were unable to complete the track and had to fly out from Melaluka. This was her second attempt. We had figured how long we had to hike and by what day to make it out in time. I was told by a colleague of Kristins at Hobart Uni that we had to be past a certain river crossing called Louisa Creek by the end of Tuesday or we should turn around and take our chances waiting for a plane to take us back to Hobart.


We were making great time in along the track leading up to the Ironbound range, a 900 meter steep ascent and then down into a steep jungle rainforest. From Cox Bight to the other side of the Ironbounds is 30 kilometers. Most hikers make a day out of the Ironbound Range from Louisa Creek, about a 10 hour day. This was our plan. To make it to Louisa Creek on Monday Night, cross, camp and climb. This is where we ran into the first and potentially disasterous challenge.


Since it had been raining and misting for days, there was a tremendous amount of water in the system, this was afterall, the wet season. Prue and I made a good pace to Faraway Creek, a few river crossings before we reached Louisa Creek. The water looked immediately dangerous. It was flowing far to fast and there was no rope for crossing that we could see. After we put down our packs and checked the area a little closer, we found a "Danger, High Water" sign about a half meter under water. We then realized there was an entire set of steps under water, leading to the place where you are to cross. This was a huge problem. There was no way to cross without being flushed down the river and strained by the next tree, which we could see sticking out of the water. After a short time, we could hear a flapping in the water, only to discover the rope that is used to cross (at shoulder level) emerging from the water. This was a good sign, but also a signal as to how deep the water really was, and how long we might have to wait. We reckoned the water would have to drop 6 feet before we could cross. We sat, ate and watched the water move down from the marker that we jammed into the side of the bank. The water was draining quickly.

(This story will take some time, So I'm going to write it as I find time) Stay tuned.

Tuesday, October 9, 2007

Mt. Wellington, Mt. Field, Tall Trees and the Groundling Swallet

This last week was one of the most amazing. I hiked for 9 hours on the side of mount Wellington which is the big mountain that hosts Hobart at it's feet. I walked up from Kristin and Darren's new place on Huon Road. I walked for 9 hours and only ran into two people and a classroom field trip. I took some pictures of the Dolerite coulombs that is common as a geological feature around Tasmania. According to geologists, these coulombs were formed around the time when Gondwanaland (the supercontinent) broke apart. I turns out that Tasmania is more similar and was once connected to the antarctic continent at some time in the past. You can see the dolerite in the pictures of the Organ Pipes Trail.

This last weekend, we went out to a music event called Rectango here in Hobart. It was a beautiful scene of people of all ages dancing to some island marimba music.

The next day, Kristin, Amy and I went up to Mt. Field. This was a stunning environment. We trudged up into a snow covered mountain with a pink boogie board and another sled. This mountain looked like a half prehistoric jungle half ice age climate that just boggled my mind. I couldn't believe that there was a ski lift operating at the top with a few shacks to warm up in. We got to the top, had a delicious lunch care of Amy, and sledded down the mountain. It was a great hike.

When we reached the bottom, the temperature heats up and the jungle emerges. This area is where the Ents sequences were filmed in Lord of the Rings in a forest called the Styx. This was one of the most amazing forests I had ever been lucky enough to step foot in. There are some of the tallest trees in the world there. Humongous eucalyptus trees were spread out with moss and epiphytes growing all over them. We took the tall trees walk and then went to one of the most magical places I've ever been, the Groundling Swallet. This was a river that flowed through this lush forest and down into a cave. Magnificent.

This week, I worked on the place at Mountain River in preparation for the wedding on Saturday. I'm also preparing for a 6 day hike called the South West Track in Tassie. It will be quite an adventure. Wish me luck!

Sunday, September 30, 2007

Bay of Fires and Aussie Creatures

Kristin Darren and I traveled up the East coast of Tasmania in the Boganmobile this last weekend to see the Bay of Fires, Douglass-Apsley Dry Forest, Bicheno Beach and Wineglass Bay at Coles Harbor.

This trip started with fresh oysters right out of the ocean. You can stop at the side of the road and pick up oysters that were, within minutes, plucked out of the oceas. They were the most incredibly fresh oysters I had ever tasted.

These were some spectacular hikes as you can see from the pictures. We saw a huge amount of wildlife this weekend including dolphins, Fairy Penguins, White Cockatoos, Pied Oystercatchers, Wallabies (with joey), Akidnas and Wedge-Tailed Eagles.

The Fairy Penguins are a great sight to see. They come in at Bicheno Beach after a full day of fishing in the ocean. They waddle in at around dusk to avoid being eaten by birds (they are less than a foot tall). Luck would have it that we saw one when it was light, standing on a rock about 5 feet away. When some other baby penguines made their loud churtling noise and we looked away, the penguine waddled slowly into the grass. People come to this point on the rocks (in the picture) every night to watch these creatures come in from the sea. Kristin made some delicious curry and veggies for dinner as well.

We hiked down to Wine-Glass Bay the next day to one of the most incredible beaches I've ever seen. You have to hike down for an hour so it limits the number of people that are on the beach (there is no road-unbelievable for U.S. standards). Therefore the beach is pristine. We watched to very dark beautiful dolphins swim across this bay along with a crazy grebe (bird) that was diving for fish. Lonesome beaches are pretty common in Tassie, there are so many remote beaches that often, you and your party are the only people on the beach.

On the way back we went to a place called Kate's Berry Farm where we picked up fresh ice cream made from local ingredients that was too delicious to be true. We pulled into Hobart and Had dinner with Arielle and Quinne. Thanks for the home-made pizza and Tassie wine!

Tuesday, September 25, 2007

Tasmania!!!

I'm in Tasmania! It's been a long journey since Tennessee. After I left I spent two weeks in Ohio with Mom getting the house ready to sell and move. It was time well spent and the house looks great and mom is feeling quite refreshed.

Mom and I went back down to Franklin to be with Kelly and Chad and Marion Love as she recovered from a staff infection. Marion is doing well and healthy and making some squeaks and baby-talk and is cute as ever.

Then, more driving back to Ohio and then to Colorado for two weeks where I saw some great friends and worked on a farm for a couple of weeks. I build a Guinea Hen coupe and worked in the orchard and of course, mucked the barn. Thank You Katherine and Natalie for the work. It was great to get some Colorado sun and help out.

I spent my birthday with friends (Hi John, Beth and Cali) and went to two nights of Sound Tribe at Red Rocks where i had the time of my life. During the weekend my good friend and co-conspiritor, Will Robertson, threw a party called the Hootenanny up in Idaho Springs. This was a gorgeous setting where a team of pranksters built a stage in the middle of this valley out of huge timber. You have to drive up a long dirt road to get there and it's a perfect place for festivals and gatherings. Good work Will. This was truly an amazing time and a great send off to Aussie Land (also thanks Amanda for the good news on traditional herbalism and mountain walks). Eddie, Dean and Joe Romagli went up to the favorite swimming hole in the Poudre River and Seaman Reservoir (good pics). I have also included pics of the Sustainability fair at New Belgium Brewery where Amy Goodman from Democracy Now gave a keynote. I saw John and Kathy (thanks for the delicious bread (as always the tastiest and congrats on the new house- it's perfect for you two). I witnessed the first Sustainable fashion show (nice job Saja, Brenda and Sophie!) It was great to see everyone and know that great things are happening in town. Susie Gordon took me on a tour of the first straw-bale development in the country. It looks beautiful. Thanks Saja, Eddie and Will for the hospitality!!

One more evening of french food at the Brasserie Ten Ten in Boulder and off to LA, then to Auckland, then to Melbourne Australia. Thanks so much to Jamey Birdsong and Marie for helping me on my way and giving me a good laugh as I was stopped by security for all of the liquids I was trying to smuggle into the plane. It turned out to be water and a can of coconut juice. Thanks Amanda for all the delicious treats, especially the dried sea-weed, a new favorite.

Seeing my lanky and extremely long legs, the girl at the counter gave me the emergency exit seat for the flight over and it was the best move ever. Thank you girl at the counter! The flight was not to although I am just getting over the jet lag. When I arrived in Melbourne, I grabbed my bag and caught a bus to the city. I found a map and hopped on a free tram (thank you public transport) that circled the city and took me to Federation Square. There, as you can see in my pics, I ended up in a rally for indigenous health rights. The average life expectancy for Aborigines is 17 years less than everyone reading this email. This event was called close the gap and I ended up putting my paint soaked hand print on the aborigine flag as well as my backpack as my sign that I had arrived. I was called "legendary" by one of the volunteers. I thought this was a good omen.

I walked the streets and found my way to the botanical gardens. These were beautiful and a crash course in what this place has to offer. I tooled around the city for the day and assumed Nick would be home in the evening. I ended up riding the tram to the North West corner of the city and walking to his place. It is unbelievably close the the city and it was a great time. Thanks to Sod, Michael, Lindsay and Nick for the hospitality and a good showing of the city and explaining the game that is all the rage in Victoria, FOOTY. The national championship is this weekend and everyone is Footy-crazy. They fill up 90,000 person arenas with the sport here and I had never even heard of it. It's quite exciting.

Melbourne has lots to offer, especially when it comes to coffee and food. It is the cultural center of Australia. There was lots of public art and great people walking around, especially in St Kilda, where my community garden photos are from. There is more to say here but I am running out of time. Thanks Inge for hanging out with me for a couple of days, Holland must be missing you.

Nick took me to the airport for my Tassie flight and off I went. Tassie is an easy flight, up and down, oh yeah, with horrible turbulence. Kristin thought I would be better off being surprised by it since it is a regular occurrence. I was not. However, i am safe.

So Darren and Kristin and I have met up, had some beers and are living the Tassie life. I hear of many plans for a glorious future of Mariah Island, the Walls of Jerusalem, the Great South West Track and many more. This is going to be an exciting time. I'm also conducting part of the wedding ceremonies. I'll have to make some sort of costume of a large wallaby or something to make everything official. The wildlife here is so so so cute it is ridiculous.

Anyhow, I'm out of time, I hope you are well and I'll keep it coming! More fun times ahead!!! Check out my pics on a link in the bottom right.

Love
David Canter

Saturday, August 11, 2007